Monday, January 30, 2012

My Tuscan Lasagna

Today's post interrupts our irregularly scheduled blog to bring you a recipe for gluten-free Tuscan Lasagna that I have been getting lots of requests for.  But first, a little background.... and if you want to skip the background, scroll on down.  I won't be offended.

This is not a cooking blog even though I love to cook and I love to eat.  There are some really great blogs that feature special diets and I follow several of those blogs.  A few months ago I changed my eating habits in order to lose the weight that has crept up since I took a job with corporate America years ago.  To give my metabolism a little boost, I did a vegan/smoothie/juice/mostly-raw diet for a couple of weeks (see www.jointhereboot.com for their standard reboot if you want to know exactly how I began this journey) and then started reintroducing grains, nuts, meat and other foods back into my diet.

I have always known that I had issues with soy.  It started during infancy when my Mom couldn't produce enough breast milk and I couldn't keep formula down.  I eventually kept it down, but the doctor warned my mom that it wasn't because I wasn't allergic to the last brand they tried; my body had merely learned to tolerate what they kept putting into me.  I've read that most people outgrow that allergy but I never did.  I can eat soy sauce and a little tofu (hot & sour soup - yum!), but eating a TVP burger is a surefire way for me to get severe stomach pains.

Drinking glasses of milk have always made my throat feel like it was closing a little, but I like milk & milk products so I've stuck to cheeses and yogurts since they don't seem to do that as much.  Cheese has been a huge part of my life (and my waistline).  I didn't realize what I was putting my body through until after my reboot.  I had a slice of mozzarella melted on a portabella mushroom cap the day after my reboot ended and had stomach pains that reminded me of soy.  I still love cheese and yogurt so I still eat a little of it, but I am more careful now and keep it to a minimum.  Why put my body through that if I don't have to?

Finally, about the gluten-free thing.  I do not have Celiac's disease and I do eat some wheat and wheat products.  However, my mother has adult-onset diabetes and she told me that whenever she eats bread, even 100% whole wheat, it causes her blood sugar to spike.  Since my blood sugar has been creeping up over the past few years, I figured it was doing spiky things to my blood too so I've pretty much eliminated it from my diet.

Which (finally) brings me to the Tuscan Lasagna recipe.

Almost.

A couple of years ago, Lynxter and I took a trip to Italy.  On the trip we visited a winery in San Gimignano.  As part of the tasting, they served us a piece of the vintner's mother's lasagna so that we could experience the white truffle oil they sold.  We left with a bottle of the truffle oil and I spent the next year searching for a recipe that might replicate mama's.  It was the best lasagna I'd eaten in my life.  After a year of searching, I finally found something pretty close, a Tuscan lasagna alla Bolognese, and modified it as closely as I could to my memory of hers.  I thought it was a thing of the past when I quit eating dairy and wheat.  I might eat a little of those things and usually not together.  I was sad but really kind of ok with it because who wants stomach pain?

The day I saw brown rice lasagna noodles in the supermarket I wondered if it would be possible to make a gluten-free version of this recipe.  It features some cheese, but what's really important to the taste is the bechamel sauce, which traditionally includes both milk and flour.

As I said before, I love to eat.  So I am not going to modify my diet to include something that tastes nasty.  If the substitution doesn't taste good, I'd rather eliminate the food entirely from my diet.  With that in mind, I modified the recipe to what follows.  Along the way I have included dietary options I have tried and some thoughts on how it might be made meat-free (which I've never tried).  I hope you enjoy it.  I think it's good enough that if your audience didn't know it wasn't "real" noodles and cheese, they'd never guess.

I took a pan of this to my writer's group salon a couple of weeks ago and everyone seemed to enjoy it.  People have been asking me for the recipe.  Then this morning someone on Twitter asked for it.  So I thought I'd post it here where anyone who wants can have a copy.

And one final warning about what I'm calling "dairy-free".  Most dairy-free cheeses are made with soy, which is worse for me than dairy.  So I use Rice Shreds, which actually contains casein, a milk-based product.  So if you absolutely can't have casein, you'll probably want to use a vegan, soy-based cheese.

And unlike a food blog, there are no pictures.  Both times I made it, we ate it all down as though we were starving, which we certainly are not.

Tuscan Lasagna


PASTA:
10oz box of GF Lasagna noodles (I used Tinkyada brown rice pasta)

RAGU:
About 1 Tbsp olive oil
1-1/2 lbs. Ground beef (a good cut, at least 80-90% lean)¹ - subst. soy crumbles if you want to go meatless & can have soy, see comment below about possible soy-free option)
½ c shredded carrots
½ c chopped celery rib
½ c chopped onions
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp chopped fresh sage
½ tsp thyme
28oz can crushed tomatoes
½ c dry red wine (a chianti or other sangiovese works best)
½ c beef stock (you could use a beef-flavored broth if you are going vegetarian)

FILLING:
8oz Mozzarella Rice Shreds (use pecorino Romano cheese, grated if you can have goat cheese) or soy-based "cheese"
Bechamel sauce (recipe below)

BECHAMEL SAUCE:
1 Tbsp soy-free Earth Balance
1 Tbsp Bob's Red Mill GF All-Purpose flour
300mL Coconut milk (about 1-1/4c) - can subst rice milk, cow's, etc. if you like) - I used So Delicious Original
1/2 tsp Arrowroot powder
1/8 tsp or less! freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp chicken-flavored soup base (I use Orrington Farms which has actual chicken but not all do)
freshly ground pepper to taste
freshly ground sea salt to taste

TOPPING:
White truffle oil  (pay more, get the real stuff.  If it's cheap it isn't real.  It is worth it!)


Start the Ragu.  In a large saucepan/skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Add the carrots, celery and onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes.  Stir in the sage and ground beef¹ and season with salt and pepper.  Break up the meat with a wooden spoon and cook over high heat until no trace of pink remains, about 8 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook over high heat, stirring, until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Add tomatoes and stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 hours, uncovered, stirring occasionally.   You can actually let this cook longer than 2 hours the longer it cooks, the better it tastes.

While the ragu simmers, prepare the bechamel.  Melt the "butter" in a heavy saucepan over low heat. Add the flour & arrowroot all at once, and stir rapidly with a wire whisk until blended. Add the milk at once to the butter-flour mixture, stirring vigorously with a whisk. Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce has thickened and is smooth, about the consistency of a thin pudding. Add the nutmeg, salt, and a few grinds of pepper, soup base if desired.  Cool the sauce at least 15 minutes before using. It becomes firmer as it cools.

Preheat oven to 375°F.  Spray a 13 x 9 x 3-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.  Spread a layer of Bolognese Sauce on the bottom of the dish. Cover with uncooked lasagne, slightly overlapping the noodles. Spread some ragu over the noodles and dollop with scant tablespoons of the bechamel.  Then sprinkle with cheese  Drizzle Béchamel Sauce over the noodles and sprinkle with cheese.  Continue in this order until you use the last of the noodles, then top with the remaining bechamel sauce and cheese  This layer of bechamel should cover the entire top of the layer.  Reserve any remaining Bolognese Sauce for serving.  Make sure no dry noodles are exposed or they will not soften and that's pretty yucky (even true for noodles with gluten, in my opinion).

Cover with foil and bake for 40 to 50 minutes. Remove foil and continue to bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. Let rest 10 to 15 minutes until serving.

Serve with additional ragu and pecorino romano (or other "cheese") as desired, but drizzle truffle oil on the top of each serving.  You'll thank me.  It's what had me searching for this lasagna recipe for almost a year.....

¹NOTE: It costs a bit more, but it's really excellent to replace the 2 lbs. Ground beef with 1 lb. Ground veal, ½ lb. ground pork,  ½ lb. ground lamb and 1/3 lb. chicken livers.  Before adding the ground meat as described above, first stir in the chicken livers and sage and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the livers lose their pink color, about 3 minutes. Then add the ground veal, pork and lamb and continue the recipe as above. 

Looking for a vegan, soy-free ground beef alternative?  I haven't tried it, but am intrigued by Ricki Heller's "easily soy-free" veggie full-ground meat.  Check it out here and instead of Bragg's or Soy sauce, don't omit it, try Coconut Aminos.  I am going to give this a shot soon but probably not in the lasagna recipe.  If I keep making that I'm going to start gaining weight again.

Please let me know what you think!

And now, back to my irregularly scheduled blog about writing and thoughts and stuff.


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